That doesnt happen when fiber is being compressed and smoothed while it becomes a worsted drafted yarn; that happens when the twist limbos into the fiber. Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. I made a sweater that is just too heavy and was hoping to be able to make it in a lighter weight yarn. The carder opens up the fiber and blends it evenly, resulting in a thin cloud- or web-like sheet commonly known as abatt. On the other hand, worsted yarn is spun by combing fibers. Durability, warmth and weight. February 2018 The best article ever on this subject. On the other hand, the woolen fabrics hold creases and shape well and are more durable. Some yarns are not so obvious. Thank for for such a coherent explanation (and the pretty swatches really help too)! They also tend to have better stitch definition than single-ply yarns do. In relation to the thinner 1ply yarns Woollen Spun has a crisper feel, whereas the Worsted Spun has more drape and softness. Im usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. Now I can make better informed decisions when selecting yarns for a project, and now that next trip to my LYS will really become an adventure! December 2019 June 2013 God Bless. Great explanation, i aways spin long draw and card my alpaca, tearing long strips off of the batt, i would be interested in working out what type my yarn is. This helped me understand the difference and will help me make better choices when picking a yarn to knit certain patterns. The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. Most people define semi-worsted as spinning worsted using carded fibers while spinning the way you would for worsted yarn. Extremely helpful! The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. 4/9. November 2015 Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. Yarns with multiple strands of fiber plied together are very sturdy. This is extra work youre asking them to undertake, and knitting patterns are already underpriced. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. Does this happen with all yarns? These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. If your allergy is very specific (e.g., you cant do wool, but you can do alpaca, or you cant handle linen but youre fine with cotton or bamboo), itll be easier to substitute than if your allergy is more broad (e.g., you cant do any animal fibers at all and have to use plant fibers, or vice versa). The term 'Worsted' doesn't only define the yarn weight, it also indicates a wool processing method. lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. Module 1 Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. Learn how your comment data is processed. In my spinning past, I've spun from locks, from picked fiber 'clouds' , from bats, had also tried a badly produced rolag or two and gave up ~~ but mostly all the years I've spun its been from roving, sliver, and combed top. Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. Eg: tweed. You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. Note: We will specifically explain the commercial woolen- and worsted-spinning methods employed by the mills we work with. July 2018 You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation: https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. Brava! Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. Desalegn Atalie. I have been knitting for almost 50 years and have never understood what worsted yarn was all about. Appreciate the info. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. November 2013 May 2016 Shelter is Brooklyn Tweed's first yarn, and one of the most well-loved - a worsted weight, woolen-spun Targhee-Columbia wool, sourced, dyed, and spun entirely in the USA. Drafting is the process of adding twist to fiber, and of course it has an effect on your knitting. May 2014 Worsted-spun knitted fabrics are super-soft, incredibly versatile knits that are used for baby clothes, underwear, t-shirts and sportswear, leggings, dresses and other light-weight knitwear. It makes yarn that is smooth and dense. The yarn is less hairy than worsted yarns. Because our yarns are washed in the hand-dying process some blooming has already occurred. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are smoother and knit up into fabrics with greater drape and stitch definition. Its a great way to see how things might turn out before you start working on your own projects. Knit using the same needles and in the same style that youll be knitting the garment (i.e., flat or in the round). However, the cost of carded woolen yarn is lower. Be sure not to violate boundaries, too. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. Combed top can be used to make yarns for items that are still going to be warm, like a hat, it just will not have the insulating ability of a yarn spun woolen, but will be stronger than a woolen spun yarn. Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. How a yarn looks also depends on (did you read my last article?) So good! Thank you so much Katie. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. This was the only blog with a long windup that was not only worth the read but also genuinely funny rather than trying too hard. Worsted spinning is generally done with the longer fibres, whereas woollen makes use of the shorter ones, which means that worsted yarns are generally denser. That, in turn, means youll have more trouble knitting a garment that will fit you right. That would be worsted-style shopping. Very well spot on! www.harrisville.com, Content: 100% pure wool Put-Up: 215 yd [196 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash with mild soap in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 17 sts = 4 (10cm) on size 8 (5 mm) needles, Our mill has been in production on the same location for 158 years, so we do have some history in producing woolen-spun yarn, says John Little of Briggs & Little Woolen Mills. Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. That is woolen drafting. August 2015 But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. So the semi-worsted spinning gets you more yardage since the yarn is less . This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. Thanks for clearing up my confusion over what I scored at the thrift shop today and helping provide some direction on what project might be right for it. Snippets is the Saturday newsletter full of MDK news, specials, and first look at new offerings. Now, Cotton-Ease was a perfectly good yarn (its since been discontinued, alas). Worsted spun yarn includes individual fibers that are facing in many directions, whereas woolen spun has all of the fibers facing in the same direction before the yarn is spun and they remain much more parallel in the final spun singles. Once its dry, use a measuring tape to determine how many stitches and rows you have in a 4 square area. They are the same weight and have the same number of plies. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. This was a grat posting. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". October 2019 Woolen spinning also works best on wool with shorter staple lengths, such that if you pull on the yarn from several inches away, the yarn can indeed break. Single-ply yarns are, to put it mildly, gloriously soft. In fact, the answer may not even be the same every time. April 2015 Look at the picture that accompanies this section. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Stitch definition. Wool is readied by washing (lanolin is the by-product), carding, sometimes combing, then spinning. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, youll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. Compared with worsted yarns with the same specifications, worsted core-spun yarns have the following advantages: 1. $43.99 + $10 . May 2013, All In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. Color. Also in pilling and other aspects. Prepare to fiddle with needle sizes and maybe make a math adjustment or two if your chosen yarn doesnt quite match the gauge in the pattern. Ive got the same question as an earlier commenter one leg of my knit stitches is tighter than the other. This information is just wrong as to pilling. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. The difference in these two yarns are mainly due to two factors; (1) the nature or class of wool used; and (2) the method of preparing and spinning the fibres into yarn. November 2016 June 2015 Wool Yarn Wool is the dense, warm , soft, often curly hair forming coat of sheep, also called a fleece. September 2021 Then repeat the gauge swatching process. Goodness, though, was it ever the wrong choice for this one. Because the fibers are parallel, worsted spun yarns are denser and less airy than woolen spun. www.briggsandlittle.com, Content: 100% American wool Put-Up: 140yd [128 m]/134 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 1720 sts = 4 (10 cm) on sizes 79 (4.55.5 mm) needles, Shelter is a medium-weight yarn that varies in gauge, working differently and beautifully on small to large needles. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. The problem is that theyre not as durable as multi-ply yarn. Very clear explanation of a new topic to me. While the definitions of woollen and worsted yarns can be debated, each style of yarn has a very distinct physical appearance when knitted, crocheted, or woven into cloth. This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. The Vs of stockinette are sharp, the bumps of moss are plump and clear and the holes in the lace are wide open. At the roping stage, the fibers are of irregular lengths, jumbled and nestled together in every which way. Top: Worsted spun shows more stitch definition Bottom: Woolen spun soft bouncy yarn without stitch definition Like cousins, woolen and worsted yarns have the same genetic profile, but look and act completely different from one another. The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. Compared to woolens, worsted wool fabrics are brushed in two directions with special brushes. Shop Talk However, you may visit Cookie Settings to provide controlled consent. Work your swatch until the swatch is about 4 long, and then bind off. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. June 2022 Between those extremes, you can make infinite yarn combining elements from along the woolen/worsted continuum. There are two yarns, one brown and one light green. Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! If you ever created your own cord or unwound a hank of yarn, then that's the exact same process. Spin: Worsted or Woolen How a yarn is spun affects a yarn's weight and crimp. September 2016 As for me, well, I love hearing from people who are working on my patterns and do my best to respond to messages quickly. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Loft, Quarry, and Shelter (shown above, top to bottom) appear wispy and how the fibers in each single are oriented in every direction and nestled together in a disorderly manner. Woolen drafted yarn gives a texture and an overall softness and visual motion to all the stitches, something I like, but occasionally I find some small stitch repeat patterns get lost with woolen yarns. April 2019 2.83 yds Holland Sherry WOOL Fabric Luxury worsted Suiting 10 oz Plaid 102" BTP. popular colorways Coal 12 stashed 19 projects Fig 4 projects 4 projects 3 stashed 3 projects 50 projects Snowbound 7 stashed 16 projects New spinning innovations have produced wind and waterproof wool fabrics. It's much faster to spin wool because the fibres are not tidied up before you begin spinning. In this blog, we will take a closer look at worsted and woolen yarns and what sets them apart. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. It isn't just a question of being one or the other though, there is a continuum of spinning structures with true worsted on one end, true woolen on the far opposite and lots of semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns in between. But its so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. You'll also want to identify whether the suggested yarn in the pattern is woolen spun or worsted spun. You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. Try Ravelry and yarnsub.com, or phone the manufacturer (or ask your LYS owner to). October 2013 Dogs A woolen yarns loose, lofty structure traps and holds air, making it warm and light, but the air between the fibers allows them to abrade quicker. October 2015 December 2014 Perfect. This was a great post. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. This page is a godsend . The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. The result of this worsted-style preparation and spinning is a yarn that is smooth and dense, due to the fibers being neatly combed in a parallel fashion. January 2014 February 2016 Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. Which do you like and want to work with? As a very new spinner (wheel) I found this article so informative and easy to understand. After being spun into yarn, our worsted-spun yarns are dyed in the skein. In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. September 2017 Great article and most helpful. Worsted yarns are smooth and dense, they tend to drape well and be much more lustrous. Copyright 2023 A Bee In The Bonnet | Bamboo on Trellis Framework by Mediavine, This site uses cookies to improve its performance and to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. Within woollen preparation the fibre is spun straight . So far, all the colors have been created by dyeing the fiber in 16 vibrant solids, then blending them, two or . The difference between these two is not as clear at first glance. Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. September 2022 So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? In colorwork, the edge that gives a worsted yarn great stitch definition also makes colors standapart, while woolen drafted yarns create softness and blur between colors. The combed wool is then sent through a pin drafter several times, resulting in the wool sliver becoming progressively thinner with each pass through the machine. Ill never look at yarn the same way again! Content: 100% pure new wool Put-Up: 119yd [110 m]/134 oz [50 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash in cool water Recommended Gauge: 20 sts and 28 rows = 4 (10 cm) on size 6 (4 mm) needles, Woolen-spun yarn creates little air pockets in the fiber; I like to think the process is similar to backcombing ones hair, offers Blacker Yarnss Sonja Bargielowska. In the woolen system, the fibers are carded and then spun It affects the processing efficiency as well as the quality of the product.This presentation has focused on wool spinning particularly woolen & worsted spinning process. A lot. (using carded fibers). Usually with terms like PHONE: Toll Free 1-800-483-8749 I have been looking for something to help determine how best to substitute yarn. 28 minutes. A quick aside to address the words we use here. According to Clara Parkess The Knitters Book of Yarn, spinning or adding twist to the fiber while it is in a jumbled state (in other words, in a woolen-preparation) is one key aspect of woolen-spun yarns. Shop our 50% Off Online Workshop Sale! Because woolen-spun yarns retain lots of air pockets during the production process, they knit up into very insulating and warm garments. If its too tight (that is, more stitches per inch than it should have), try going up a needle size. Thank you for this lucid explanation and the swatches to illustrate it. In this installment of our Foundations series, we explain the differences between how our woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarn families are produced, as well as describe the different kinds of fabrics one can achieve with either kind of yarn. If youre really comfortable with doing a lot of math, making adjustments on the fly, and pulling out your work if you decide you dont like how it works, then feel free to experiment with a yarn of a different gauge. This is so helpful and interesting not to mention how easy to understand. Ive been knitting for 15 years and never knew any of this! I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. I was moving too quickly on that one, clearly. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. Sign up for our email list and get 10% off your next order in the MDK Shop! Never discount the yarn lust factor with yarn. The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. For many projects, it wont make much of a difference if youre switching yarn construction. Woolen yarn is less durable as compared to worsted yarn which may last longer. To really make sure you stand the best chance of getting the right gauge, you need to check your new yarns put up and/or WPI. The worsted yarn spinner uses wool fibres which have been combed and are of a certain length, that is, about 2 inches or more. SpoinnersAdvent Great visuals and explanations. It might be worth sacrificing a bit of cable definition to get a lighter, cozier feeling sweater. I am going to print this and use it, because this made me feel empowered by actual knowledge - my yarn purchases may take a bit longer as I review all of the yarns characteristics, but I have a much better sense of what I am doing! May 2017 July 2017 Look at the picture that accompanies this section. But not always. All of my Maine-spun yarns unlike typical worsted-spun yarns are low-twist, very soft, a little fuzzy, and apt to pill to some degree. July 2020 If you end up having to make a major substitution, remember that plant fibers tend to be heavier than animal fibers. You can write a comment on the yarns Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. Woolen spun wears like iron without the amount of pilling common to worsted spun yarns. The unique 12-ply construction means that garments drape beautifully and afghans and warm weather accessories have a cushiony soft bounce. You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. December 2016 Heres what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. Taking the spinning seminar from Cecilia Quinn I learned the difference between worsted and woolen is in the way the fibers were treated and spun. August 2018 But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. June 2016 Flywheel is light and airy and lends itself well to both lace projects and warm, cozy sweaters. Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. As an example, aran weight worsted spun wool is going to be heavier than aran weight woolen spun wool, so there will be fewer yards per 100 grams of the worsted spun wool . It is named after the small English village of Worstead, in the county of Norfolk and this village was a center for manufacturing in the twelfth century. Looking at a strand, I can start seeing variation. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Worsted is used to describe the thickness of a yarn (worsted weight), one way fibers are aligned before becoming yarn (worsted preparation), and how twist enters fiber to become yarn (worsted drafting). Twist is the magic that makes fiber into yarn, and drafting is how the twist gets into the fiber. Worsted Weight: 250 Yards / 100 Grams. February 2022 Theyre the same weight, but theyre not made the same way. This blooming also has the effect of softening and blending the appearance of your stitches rather like moss growing on a forest floor, in the words of Clara Parkes. July 2016 That wasnt the silhouette I was aiming for. Beautiful fibre you'll love to work with. Over at Into the Whirled, the people come from all directions into the booth in a hullabaloo of shopping, woolen style. Thank you!!! Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. Time to read it again, more closely! November 2019 3.5 oz ball / yards 245. knitting gauge: 5 stitches / inch on US 7. hand wash cold / lay flat to dry. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. July 2019 A lot of totally digestable information, that was logically arranged and illustrated and you even sprinkled it with touches of humor. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. The semi-woolen swatch weighed 4.5 g versus 4.3 g for the woolen-spun - not a huge difference in a swatch of this size. March 2021 I hope you enjoy your next project. I choose to support local and indie yarners and dont mind spending big $$ on yarn if I understand it will fit the intended project. I guess I thought it referred to the ply, like 4-ply. Worsted Yarn. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Not every woolen-spun yarn has a rougher surface, and not every worsted yarn is smooth. Excellent article great swatch/photo examples too. To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. Advent Brilliant. However, there are differences between worsted weight yarns and woolen yarns as well. The yarn surface is brighter and cleaner. When I first started knitting, I bought a Debbie Bliss magazine that had this adorable, lightweight top for summer. Its like choosing between the cleaned-up, slicked-back Tom Hardy in Legend or the grungy Tom Hardy in Mad Max: Fury Road. Thank you so much for sharing. As a result, generally they will pill more easily and develop holes sooner. Want to try out some wonderful wool yarns? The worsted will tend to emphasize the gaps between the colours. From that basis it's pretty much impossible to create a woolen yarn, which relies on trapping hairs perpendicular to the direction of the yarn Case in point, hobby lobbys I love this yarn and their soft secret are both worsted, but one is 4 ply and the other 3 ply. If you cant, try searching the designs hashtag on Instagram. Everyone already said what I wanted to, so Ill just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how hes spun. . Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. Thanks! If you compare those to the recommended yarns details, youll have a better sense of whether the substitution will work. Unfortunately you cant tell from the ballband unless the manufacturer has included that information. Interesting point I would like to know that too! Very good, educational description. Yarn tends to come in hanks, balls, skeins, cakes, and cones. Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. Yarnsub is a great resource for substituting yarns from larger companies! No need to go to the gym if you do an hours wool combing! Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose.

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